- 10 luglio 2008 -

White Mountain...

di Nicole Berkelmans

Introduction

I have to admit that, as a girl grown up in nether countries were beer quenched the thirst of the workers and wine fuelled mainly the brains, pens and pockets of the nouveaux-riches, I find myself quite sceptical against the concept of viti-tourism. Especially when my first encounter involves a breakfast of Spumante sipped on top of the Mon Blanc. I spark off in a tipsy meditation on what ecological viti-tourism could – and really should – involve. An antidote to save our cultural diversity and the sacred act of travelling from Benidorm style scenarios should have quality at its core. Quality being a quite vague concept that hopefully words like culture, education, mythology, agricultural techniques, history, and grassroots authentic experiences – can give some more meaning to. But first, prejudges aside, let us experience.

Monte Bianco

For as long as men has walked its grounds, the Mont Blanc has fascinated mountaineers, poets, botanist, geologists and viticulturists alike. It has been described as a beautiful but very dangerous peak. Whom holds the record for number of deaths occurred while climbing in Europe. Already within this summer of 2008 a dozen experienced mountaineers lost their lives on her white tops. When the weather suddenly changes and snow starts to slide on the fragile granite it is hard to predict a safe path. Some claim that Mont Blanc ‘has killed more climbers than any other mountain on earth. The annual death toll regularly passes 100, and for every person who’s died on Mount Everest, it’s figured that more than 10 have died on the European Alps’ highest mountain’.
The unapproachable nature of the moody white lady has added to the fact that, until about 1870, the Monte Bianco remained an exclusive resort. However since the first roads were opened ‘The region has come to form the largest Alpine tourist centre, with aerial tramways and facilities for winter sports, and its traditional pastoral economy has been completely eclipsed.‘ Now the natural beauty Monte Bianco has to offer is accessible by cable cart.
Many think that the Mon Blanc is part of Switzerland, but any Vallee d'Aostane will proudly tell you differently. Monte Bianco mountain massif highest peak (15,771 feet [4,807 m]) in Europe tops in Italy. 'Located in the Alps, the massif lies along the French-Italian border and reaches into Switzerland. It extends southwestward from Martigny, Switz., for about 25 miles (40 km) and has a maximum width of 10 miles (16 km). The summit is in French territory. Surrounding the massif are the Graian Alps (south), the Chamonix Valley and Savoy Alps (west), the Pennine Alps (northeast), and the Valley of Courmayeur (east). Other principal peaks within the massif include Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit, Aiguille ("Peak") du Géant, Les Grandes Jorasses, Mont Dolent, and Aiguille du Midi.’
Monte Bianco consists mainly of fragile granite. Its glaciers cover about 100 square kilometers, giving the mountain its white appearance. They are the second longest glaciers in the Alps and reached 1,250 meters in 1930. Since the Seventeenth century the glaciers have repeatedly advanced and retreated into the Chamonix Valley, leaving their marks in the land and soil. This ancient ice sends roaring streams from the central dome down to 1,500 meters trough the Chamonix valley.
Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!
~ Dom Perignon, at the moment he discovered champagne
In following of all these great adventurers we take the 60-year-old cable cart up the mountain with viticulturer Gianluca Telloli. Armed with 3 bottles of prosecco; each cultivated by the Soc. Coop Morgex Italia. Their wines carry the characteristics of their territory: Monte Bianco's eroded feet, fed with ancient old minerals from its granite & gletcher water. The crisp mountain air that the vines breath in at 1200 meters can produce a sparkling wine. Apparently there is the theory that drinking prosecco on top of a mountain taste much better. Today we will test at 2600 m, 2173m and 1200 m if this is a psychological advantage projected by the beautiful surroundings or if there is an actual physical difference.
There is little dispute about the effect of decreased air pressure on our prosecco. As soon as our producer opens the first bottle we get showered as if we just won the grand prix. The first prosecco we test is a Brut 2006 Blanc de Morgex et de la Sallee produced by the Extreme Methode Classico. The bubbles move up fast in our glass & release their aroma rapidly. This calls for fast drinking and a quick haze, which makes the Monte Bianco all the more pleasant. The Morgex smells like yeast, herbs and garlic. There is a strong mineral salty overtone and a hint of almonds, which apparently is typically for this region. In less then 3 minutes the entire aroma is gone. The second wine we taste is also a Brut 2006, a Blanc de Morgex de la Salle. The foamy big bubbles release a smell of a Larkish forest. It is a delicate prosecco with a fresh, crisp aftertaste of pumpkin seeds. The third wine is a 2006 Extra Brut, Blanc de Morgex et de la cave. It smells of white peach & has a taste of bitter minerals.
We take the cable cart down to Refugio Albergo Favillon at 2173 meters. This high mountain resort is both a hotel and restaurant. In its backyard you can find the Mont Blanc Botanical Gardens, a cute neat little area filled with edelweiss and other endangered mountain plants. Each species carries a nameplate with their ethno botanical uses described on them.
400 meters lower we taste more fruit in the Blanc de Morgex et de la Sallee, which also stays in our mouths for longer. We detect less garlic and less salt. Also the bubbles and aroma stay longer in our glass. The second Morgex de la Salle here carries little tannins and taste a bit like caramel and tomato leaves. The white peach we noticed in de Morgex et de la Cave now transformed to white pear.
Finally we taste the prosecco down at the vineyards. The Blanc de Morgex et de la Sallee tastes very different then on top of the mountain; much more like strawberries. The Morgex de la Salle reminds of honey and smells like yeast. The final wine; de Morgex et de la Cave taste less fruity and quite dry now. Gianluca Telloli explains a little bit about their producer’s philosophy. They devote themselves more to geographical, seasonal and thermal aspects then to traditional production theories. The regional cooperative prefers to use Larkish barrels. They produce a little bit of vino di giaccio – the Mediterranean interpretation of ice-wine.

Biodynamic Moon Shine Wine

Gianluca Telloli takes us to show the vines cultivated on the erosion of the Monte Bianco. The first plantations we see look bleached, dry & smell of sulpherous pesticides. The straight rows make that machines can drive efficiently trough the vines, but also give way to sunlight that feed the weeds & allows the natural irrigation that gravity causes to drain. The vines here still carry the original French rootstock. Unlike other, lower based, places in Europe the feluxera destructive power has not made it so far up the mountain yet. The farmers do have clones of all their grapes just in case the warmer climate of the future might bring the feluxera fly to hit their vineyards.
The viticulterist says he has something interesting to show us… we buckle up with 10 people in the back of his little van and after a bumpy bus ride of approximately 10 minutes we roll out of the dusty car. In front of us we see steep terraces build from hand picked stones. This closed property embodies 1 hec of vineyards that have been built in 1856. They still produce about 6000 bottles a year as well as an array of Dandelion, Thyme, Sage, Chrysant, Poppies, Cow Waffer Flower and Trottrot Trot. The soils here are completely organic and biodynamic which means that these plants are not seen as mere weed but that their purpose is understood in the bigger circle that the rule of return describes. The timetable handled is according to the moon, rather then to illumines. The terraces are unable to hold heavy machinery, which might press the soil and thus prohibit useful insects and weeds to do their work in refertilising the earth. Here the role of humus as a moisture storage holder is even more important then on the automatically irrigated plots. Especially since in the last few years the farmers have seen the annual rainfall decline. Telloli is planning to transform this unique terrace into a viticulture museum.
There is one more area that Telloli wants to show us. Behind the clubhouse of the cooperative, all the way down at around 800 meters, by the river roaring with gletcher water, there are some vineyards. These plots are build on an ancient amphitheatre and some of the vines count 80 years. The primary variety of grapes grown is the Petite Rouge. We enter a little human made cave in the middle of the plot. Perliougi’s friends are awaiting us. They lighted the cavern with candles and laid out a lunch with salumi, Mouchetta (a dried, spiced meat), a blood sausage made with potato, red carrots, beetroot and cloves, fromagi and excellent walnut bread. It is great to find a filling, flavorful bread after living in Piemonte, especially with a butter, that has survived the cheese-dominated culture, to match. Each plate has a specific wine to accompany. They explain that also these vineyards and wines are organic, even though there is not that much request for it. They use a glass tap because the use of natural cork has become unsustainable.
The first wine we taste is a light prior Blanc. There is a hint of sulpher, white pepper, dry violet and green apple. The producers have used different kinds of yeast collected from all over the world. The second wine we taste is a Pinot Gris, fruity like a papaya or a rose and excellent with Vallee d’Aosta’s Fontina cheese. When we move to red we taste a smoky, cherry Majolet Vin de Seigneir. It carries a hint of cocoa in its heavy mouth of forest fruit. Next a slightly tangy Infirn, which probably has the potential to lie a little longer. My favorite wine is extracted from the 80 years old vines that grow right above our heads. It is unusual to keep vines for so long since their production decreases enormously as they get older, making them economically inefficient to keep up. Note that this is in a monoculture system were vines are usually kept between 25 and 30 years. With intercropping vines could keep a profitable yield up to 80 to 120 years of age. The curiosity and craftsmanship of our producers makes that we get to taste a Petit Rouge from 2006 that tastes like a proper old wine. It is sweet but balanced; like dried fruit, sun dried sultanas. It produces less then 4000 bottles a year and with its modern label and price of 15, - I would have never guessed the superior quality of this wine would I bump upon it in a store.
Gianluca Telloli invites us to climb the vineyards in exchange for a regional myth. While we climb up the hills, we pass old walls of what used to be vineyards, now overgrown with shrubs and trees. Telloli explains that the devil’s fork printed on the label of their Petit Rouge is there for a reason. Vallee D’Aostonians, which worked the vineyards, used to refer to their territory as representing both heaven and hell. Referring to the blessed potential of their land as well as the hellish hard work that brings their viticulture about. Today we experienced this metaphor represented in many forms. From the heavenly snowy tops of the Mon Blanc, down to the dark, earthy caves buried in the vineyards. We nipped our spumante while letting ourselves be cable carted to higher spheres & actually worked our bodies to sweat, dragging them up the steep slopes in burning midday sun. We smelled the stench of sulphurous pesticides while crouching down amongst the bigger plantations as well as herby thyme and rosemary in the biodynamic vineyards. The contrasts represented the identity of Vallee d’Aosta as well as the potential it has for eco-viticulture tourism.
It could be for the rich, by the rich, solely communicating flavours, while limiting exchange to hard cash; ‘the devil’s name is dullness’. But Valee D’Aosta has much more to offer then that. If the pride, interest and creativity of the initiators allows it viti-tourism could develop as a medium through which to spark curiosity, understanding of how, why & how different. Initiating the oh so necessary apathy between soil, producer and consumer. (Like a well-balanced wine represents and speaks to a whole palate of flavours we can probably expect to find both in the future of eco-tourism.)

[Pubblicato on line nel marzo 2009]