- 9 luglio/9th of July 2008 -

Honey Place

di Aine Morris

Introduction

Over the two weeks that we spent in Valle D’Aosta, I became familiar with an area of outstanding natural beauty. The mountains, and valleys that we travelled through included some of the most breath-taking scenery that I had ever come across. I found Valle D’Aosta to be an area of great warmth, and familiarity. The people were open and hospitable, they are fiercely proud of their culinary and agricultural heritage, and clearly intend to do whatever it takes in order to protect it.
Valle D’Aosta seemed to me, also to be a place of some contradictions: old meets new, traditionalism clashes with modernity, and suspicion of the unknown comes up against the expansion of tourism. I think it was clear through the different places we visited, and the different types of people we met, that Valle D’Aosta is a region undergoing a lot of changes and developments, and as with any sort of change some people were finding the progress of modernity easier than others. I found it interesting that the people we encountered often describe themselves as neither French nor Italian but Valldostanan.
The position of Valle D’Aosta as an Italian state differs quite substantially from that of other regions. They are the smallest region in Italy, and their economic structure is such that 90% of the taxes paid by Aostans stays within Valle D’Aosta. This makes the region one of the wealthiest in Italy. Their education system is their own, and as a result they develop their own curriculum and have the power to set teachers wages at above the national average.
As well as their enviable financial situation the Valley of Aosta is geographically situated in such a position as to afford unique microclimates to certain areas of the hillsides. In some parts of Valle D’Aosta rainfall during the summer months is completely non-existent, and they obtain DOC approval to irrigate the vines in these areas, otherwise any sort of production would be impossible. It was a surprise to me to find that here amongst the mountains, which we think of as high altitudes and snow-covered, there were pockets of land that were heated by the sun, sheltered from the wind, and protected from the rain by the tall mountain peaks on either side. We encountered perfectly formed micro-climates unlike anywhere else on the planet, and this mixture of the earth, the people, the traditions and heritage had created an exceptional standard of culinary hertiage for anyone who is interested in finding it.
It seems that there is a great deal more I could say about the effect that Valle D’Aosta had on me. I think it was unquestionably one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. However, as a group we decided to write only about one day each, and that way afford the reader the opportunity to explore the different perspectives of those who were there, and hopefully use our report as a useful and informative tool to accompany their own travels and adventures into the region. I have attempt to write my report in an accessible, user-friendly way. I have concentrated on the points I feel will be of most interest to the reader, and added additional information for those who do not necessarily have an existing understanding of food terminology. I feel it is important to mention that the reviews included in my report are very much my own opinion. I do not claim to be an expert in my field, and others may disagree completely with the things I have said. I have simply written my opinions as honestly as I find them, in the hope that they will inspire discussion and debate for those who come after me.
My day, was Wednesday 9th July, and so it is with my journal of this day that I will now progress.

Villeneuve – Viticulture Enclauveurs – Pinot Gris and mechanisation in the mountain

Villeneuve is one of the vineyards producing wines for a cooperative group of producers called ‘Viticulture Enclauveurs’. Our activities the day before (Tuesday 8th July) has introduced us to the cooperative, and they had provided for us on the Tuesday evening a beautiful meal, where various courses of local food where matched with wines from the producers own stores. The producers had of course been keen that we all try a sample of their own wine, and the evening had turned into one of debate, discussion, and merry-making late into the night. So it was with something of a sleepy eye and a sore-head that we rose from our beds that morning and made our way to Villeneuve.
Villeneuve is the vineyard of Marco Martin, a local man who was welcoming and hospitable to us. We began our tour out in the vineyards which in this case were situated on the steep slopes of the mountains above the valley itself. The zone here is considered climactically to be in a good position, however the slopes of the mountain create difficult working conditions.
With 5 hectares owned between Marco and his partner, they have the largest vineyard in Valle D’Aosta, much of the rest of the wine production being made up of small plots bought when available over time. The vineyards of Villeneuve are unique because all 5 hectares exist together, and at 900m altitude the vines are high up and exposed to the sun, leading to good perfumes and concentrated flavours.
Normally in Valle d’Aosta the ground is not a factor which is considered to have a huge effect on the wines, however here the terrain is somewhat problematic. The steep slope leads to problems of erosion, and if they work using machinery which digs too deeply into the ground, then the rain will wash all the top soil away, leaving the land in ruins. Special pieces of machinery are used, which allow them work in the top-soil only, and thus avoid digging down into the ground and destabilising the slope.
One of the techniques used to protect the soil is to sow grass between rows of vines, in order to try and fix the soil into place. However this technique does not come without problems of its own. The area has an extremely dry climate (5-600ml annually), and when there are periods of drought the grasses compete with the vines for limited water resources. As with many factors in wine production it is a case of the wine-maker balancing up the odds and taking decisions accordingly. The planting of cover crops over the last three years has become a risky business, as rainfall has been low and the vines have had to fight for scare resources.
Here at Villeneuve, Marco explained they had chosen against the use of chemical herbicides, instead opting for organic methods and specialised machinery to work the soil. However, another problem frequently encountered here is the rocky nature of the soil, which can cause huge problems for the expensive machinery purchased for this type of work.

At Villeneuve the Scavallante is used for a number of tasks, but not for harvesting, instead they choose to maintain the vines by hand. This particular piece of machinery costs in the region of 50,000 euros, and another 25,000 euros if you want to use it for harvesting. In general these machines are built to specification, and the smaller the machine, the more expensive they tend to be. In this case the Scavallante trims the leaves of all 5 hectares of the vineyard in 2 ½ days. The cylinders of the machine are designed to remove all the leaves in an extremely gentle way, causing no damage to the vines. They also undertake all their pruning by hand. Due to the size of this particular vineyard it is uneconomical to invest in certain pieces of machinery. The pruning needs to be undertaken in a considered fashion, as an individual needs to assess the strength of the plant, and leave the appropriate number of germs for next years growth.
The Scavallante used at Villeneuve weighs over 3 tonnes, and I asked whether or not this caused problems of soil compaction for them. Marco informed me that the very wide surface area of these tyres prevented this from being an issue, rather it is the vibrations caused by the machine which create problems for them. The vibrations have a tendency to shake lose the soil of the steep slopes making it more vulnerable to erosion.
We also discussed the problems that wine growers in the region face when fighting moulds or diseases. This spring (2007) had been very wet and in July we were now experiencing high levels of humidity, causing a much greater risk of developing moulds. The grape varieties here are very compact with dense grape clusters, meaning that the possibility for moulds is already very high. At Villeneuve they use both Copper Sulphate and an industrial product to combat these problems. Marco explained that they were forced to take preventative measures now as some of the moulds attracting develop inside the grape, so everything looks fine until harvest when all the grapes are found to be rotten inside.

Pinot Gris grape variety

Pinot gris is white wine grape variety of the species Vitis vinifera. Thought to be a mutant clone of the Pinot noir grape, it normally has a greyish-blue fruit, accounting for its name ("gris" meaning "grey" in French) but the grape can have a brownish pink to black and even white appearance. The word "Pinot", which means "pinecone" in French, could have been given to it because the grapes grow in small pinecone-shaped clusters. The wines produced from this grape also vary in colour from a deep golden yellow to copper and even a light shade of pink.[1] The clone of Pinot gris grown in Italy is known as Pinot grigio.
Wines made from the Pinot gris vary greatly and are dependent on the region and wine making style they are from. Alsatian Pinot gris are medium to full bodied wines with a rich, somewhat floral bouquet. They tend to be spicy in comparisons with other Pinot gris. While most Pinot gris are meant to be consumed early, Alsatian Pinot gris can age well. German Pinot gris are more full-bodied with a balance of acidity and slight sweetness. In Oregon the wines are medium bodied with a yellow to copper-pink color and aromas of pear, apple, and/or melon. In California, the Pinot gris are more light bodied with a crisp, refreshing taste with some pepper and arugula notes. The Pinot grigio style of Italy is a light-bodied, often lean wine that is light in color with sometimes spritzy flavors that can be crisp and acidic.[23] Although this wine can be very sweet, it will begin to lose its acidity when it is nearly ripe.[20] Pinot gris is considered an "early to market wine" that can be bottled and out on the market within 4-12 weeks after fermentation. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinot_gris
The Pinot Gris grape varieties grown here had been selected at the Agriculture Institute where we had spent time at the beginning of the trip. The Pinto Gris variety developed from a mutated germ, and has been naturally selected over time because as a variety it has adapted very well to this climate. It grows fast and develops early, has a late germ, and resists very low temperatures making it resistant to freezing. This strong grape variety is capable of resisting strong winds and harsh weather conditions. It develops small grape bunches, but rich and with strong perfumes. On a good day, it is possible to obtain 200g bunches from the 9-10,000 plants situated in 1 hectare, meaning an intake of 1kg of grapes per meter (approximately 2 plants). The quantity of grape yielded is generally limited for DOC products, and the amount yielded here generally exceeds those limits, but for the DOC of Valle D’Aosta the yield limits are higher.
Denominazione di origine controllata is an Italian quality assurance label for food products and especially wines (an appellation). It is modelled after the French AOC. It was instituted in 1963 and overhauled in 1992 for compliance with the equivalent EU law on Protected Designation of Origin, which came into effect that year.
There are three levels of labels:
DOC — Denominazione di Origine Controllata
DOCG — Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita
DO — Denominazione di Origine
All three require that a food product be produced within the specified region using defined methods and that it satisfies a defined quality standard. DOCG regions are subterritories of DOC regions that produce outstanding products that may be subject to more stringent production and quality standards than the same products from the surrounding DOC region.
The need for a DOCG identification arose when the DOC denomination was, in the view of many Italian food industries, given too liberally to different products. A new, more restrictive identification was then created, as similar as possible to the previous one so that buyers could still recognize it, but qualitatively different.
A notable difference for wines is that DOCG labelled wines are analysed and tasted by government–licensed personnel before being bottled. To prevent later manipulation, DOCG wine bottles then are sealed with a numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork.
Italian legislation additionally regulates the use of the following qualifying terms for wines:
classico: is reserved for wines produced in the region where a particular type of wine has been produced "traditionally". For the Chianti classico, this "traditional region" is defined by a decree from July 10, 1932.
riserva: may be used only for wines that have been aged at least two years longer than normal for a particular type of wine.
Wines labelled DOC or DOCG may only be sold in bottles holding at most 5 liters.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denominazione_di_Origine_Controllata

Gewurztraminer

This white variety wine grape is cultivated largely within the Trentino / Alto Adige region of Italy, and in Valle D’Aosta where it responds well to the minerality & drynesss of the soil. The growth of this grape variety here is inferior compared to Trentino, but Marco liked it a lot, and was extremely passionate about the wines he was producing of this type. He described them as very dry, with high sugar residues. He explained that he was producing only a very small quantity, and that the market for them was very tight. This years extra rain had meant that the foliage on the vines was outstanding, which in turn would mean a lot of photosynthesis, and a good grape production.
After enjoying some time in the vineyards we were ready to move on to the Villeneuve cantina, where we were given the opportunity to taste a number of their wines.

Gewürztraminer (g?'v?rtstra'mi:n?) is an aromatic wine grape variety that performs best in cooler climates. It is sometimes referred to colloquially as Gewürz, and in French it is written Gewurztraminer (without the umlaut). Gewürztraminer is a variety with a pink to red skin colour, which makes it a "white wine grape" as opposed to the blue- to black-skinned varieties commonly referred to as "red wine grapes". The variety has high natural sugar and the wines are white and usually off-dry, with a flamboyant bouquet of lychees. Dry Gewürztraminers may also have aromas of roses, passion fruit and floral notes. It is not uncommon to notice some spritz (fine bubbles on the inside of the glass).
Its aromatic flavours make Gewürztraminer one of the few wines that is suitable for drinking with Asian cuisine.[citation needed] It goes well with Munster cheese, and fleshy, fatty (oily) wild game. Smoked salmon is a particularly good match.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gewürztraminer

Following the excellent hospitality of Villenueve we were taken to the cantina of the di’Barro winery. Lunch was a simply but delicious affair, made with vegetables from the ‘orto’ (allotment). We treated our systems to a welcome break from all the rich food of the previous days with a vertiable banquet of tomatoes with vitello tonnato, zuccini with thyme leaves, aubergine and fresh basil, potato salads with red onion and green beans, acommpanied by cured meats, cheeses, soft bread and two different wines; a white, Di Barro’ Chardonnay 2007 and a red Di Barro’ Tourette Superieur 2005.
For dessert we took Pane Nero (black bread) with hazlenuts, and two types of honey – organic with tiglio, and mixed flower, followed by homemade jennipy and coffee with grappa. Delicious!
After lunch it was onto the Aosta Valley bee keeping experiment station to look at the beehives, and taste the different varieties of honey on offer.

Following a tour of the hives, we were taken to taste a number of different honeys produced here. Below I have explained the way in which we were taught to taste the samples, and then my own personal opinion of the results.

How to taste honey...

Step 1: Stir and blend the honey sample, examin the texture, and consistency.
Step 2: Assess the colour
Step 3: Smell the sample, and try to identify the different perfumes (much as you would with wine)
Step 4: Taste the sample, looking for...
• Level of sweetness • Consistency in the mouth • Flavours • Potential for food matching My thoughts on the honeys we tasted...

Honey 1: Honey of Rhodedendrons
Very delicate, light floral notes, soft consistency, slightly grainy. Honey for bread, but no good for cheese as too sweet.
Extra note: The more glucose a honey has the faster it crystallises, the more fructose the slower it crystalises.

Honey 2: Honey of Millefiore
Opaque colour, very runny consistency. Not flavoursome, flowery aroma in the head.

Honey 3: Melata
Not honey but resin from tree. Very thick consistency. Rich in mineral salts. Honey is 80% sugars. Deep golden, thick consistency, toaste caramel flavours. Not sweet savory.

Honey 4: Honey di Tiglio
Medium consistency, light yellow colour, quite liqui with a grainy texture. Light flavour, slightly acidic in the aftermouth.

Honey 5: Miele di Catagno (Chestnut blossom)
Thicker texture, very grainy woody flavours, not too sweet, savoury notes. The grains mean that it is not 100% honey as the grains inside may be melata. A professional tasting panel would judge this honey as faulty.

Fontina Cooperative

The next stop in our schedule was the home of the Fontina Cooperative, the organisation which represents all the producers of the famous Fontina cheese traditional to Valle d’Aosta. As the Fontina Cooperative are the largest cheese producing group in the area they were a sharp contrast to some of the small scale local production we had seen. However they were more than welcoming to us, and obviously strive to maintain as much of the essence of the traditional production style as possible. The main difference is in the quantity of cheese now being produced by them. I haven’t gone into much detail here about the production of Fontina cheese, as a DVD is available to be viewed along with this report. Please access the DVD for further information about Fontina production.
Last but not least it was time for dinner, which took us Locanda La Clusaz restaurant for a traditional Valle d’Aostan dinner with chef Maurizio Grange. The view from the front of the resturant was breath-takingly spectacular, and I have submitted the menu and my thoughts below.


Menu

Tartar alle erbette con salsa al Bleu d’Aosta
Herb souffle with salsa of Blue d’Aosta cheese

Polenta cotta su fuoco a legna con fonduta alla Valdostana
Polenta cooked in the wood oven with Fontina chesse

Carbonada con polenta
Braised beef and vegetables with polenta

Tatin di pesche con gelato alla vaniglia “Bourbon”
Peach tartin with ‘Bourbon’ vanilla ice-cream

Piccola pasticceria
Little pastries

Wine
Gerbelle Didier – Torette Superieur 2006

[Pubblicato on line nel marzo 2009]