Still rebounding after decades of war, genocide, and poverty, Cambodia is now seeing huge economic growth, even in an atmosphere of global recession. This is largely thanks to the rebuilding efforts of countless NGOs and aid from multiple countries and the UN. Even if the benefits do not always filter down to the masses, in the capital city of Phnom Penh, some NGOs are specifically addressing the issues of homelessness and child poverty, including programs in agriculture and the restaurant/hospitality industries.

In early September 2009, I spent a week in Cambodia as part of my final internship on regional cuisine, and immediately fell in love with the people, the culture, and of course the local fare. Only 30 years ago, Phnom Penh was completely evacuated, left in ruins during Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge regime. Today, after a massive influx of uneducated population from the rural outskirts, this bustling city is populated with an extremely large number of street children who make money by begging or selling bottles of water, postcards, and various trinkets. Others become involved in drugs or prostitution.

Since 1994, the NGO Mith Samlanh has been working to take kids off the streets and reintegrate them into society, whether through the school system, reuniting them with estranged families, or giving them vocational training. While many different trades are possibilities, including textiles, beauty, and mechanics, there are now two restaurants in Phnom Penh that offer training and employment for former street youth. At both locations, there is an air of optimism, with bright and cheerful décor, and artwork done by the children themselves. At Friends The Restaurant, the most advanced students work as cooks, servers, and hosts, serving a fusion menu including Western choices as well as some Asian options: honey-garlic pork-and-beef meatballs were sticky sweet on the outside and spicy and savory on the inside, while a grilled fish filet with salsa verde  was flaky and delicate.

Romdeng, alternatively, serves more authentic Cambodian cuisine, and teaches the children they work with to appreciate and take pride in their own culture as part of the reintegration process. The menu features dishes from many regions of the country, showing the youth trainees the differences and connections they share with each other and with their country itself. In the spirit of cultural respect, I ordered the deep-fried tarantulas, and though I can’t say that I walked away sold on that particular delicacy (think of chewing on old shrimp shells), the dish was served with finesse and pride.

After completing their training, many of the young people go on to work in the best restaurants and hotels in Phnom Penh and elsewhere. Sitting down to well-prepared and graciously served food at either of these two restaurants, you know you are buying into much more than just a simple meal.

For more information, visit www.streetfriends.org.

Friends The Restaurant
215 Street 13, Phnom Penh

Romdeng
74 Street 174, Phnom Penh